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Queens Chronicle Eats III

Here's another piece I wrote, and an event at that! I'll be there chowing down on Sunday... Come on out, especially if you have Monday off!

If you live in Queens head to your local supermarket (or street corner news box) and pick up a free copy of the Queens Chronicle (Western Queens edition). The piece is in the Entertainment section (qboro): Pork Fest in Astoria This Weekend!

Alternatively, follow this link:

Queens Chronicle "Astoria Pigs Out".

Enjoy.

Queens Chronicle Eats II

If you live in Queens head to your local supermarket (or street corner news box) and pick up a free copy of the Queens Chronicle (Western Queens edition). My story is the cover page of the Entertainment section (qboro); a piece on aphrodisiacs.

If you can't get your hands on a paper, follow this link:

Queens Chronicle "Love Bites".

Enjoy.

Queens Chronicle Eats

If you live in Queens head to your local supermarket (or street corner news box) and pick up a free copy of the Queens Chronicle. I have a review in the Dining Out section.

If you can't get your hands on a paper, follow this link:

Queens Chronicle Dining Out.

Enjoy.

A Valentine's Event Fit For Royalty: Dinner and Performance at NYC's Metropolitan Opera's Grand Tier Restaurant

You would be hard pressed to find dining with a grander backdrop than The Grand Tier Restaurant, as the name insists. In its prime location on the Metropolitan Opera’s second floor, the entry’s mammoth staircase is fit for royalty. Diners overlook the Met’s stunning interior on one side and Lincoln Center’s Josie Robertson Plaza and fountain in the other direction. In December the Plaza’s Christmas Tree glows with blue snowflakes and as the weather warms, the majesty of the central fountain seemingly dances just for you. Equally impressive is dining between two stunning Marc Chagall murals while fellow opera-goers look on with magnetic envy from the balconies above.

At a recent evening at the Opera we passed up the usual brownie and champagne at intermission for a more formal meal at The Grand Tier.

There is nothing that can spoil an evening like sitting through a long performance (or intermission) in hunger. Head chef Martin Burge understands this quandary and caters to it perfectly. His specialty is seafood and glancing the stunning plates that surrounded us we sat with anticipation. Presentation takes center stage with entrées embellished to impress without overshadowing your evening’s main attraction-- the opera.

There were three of us on this particular evening and we were looking for something light. Our waiter recommended the San Daniel Prociutto appetizer paired with a selection of sushi and sashimi. It was enough variety to satiate all stomachs and unique flavorings to appease all palates. The spicy tuna-mango-avocado roll was by far the most interesting roll we had. A symphony of sweet mango balanced a delicate wasabi finish. The sashimi was delightfully fresh and fatty, melting once it hit the tongue.

The highlight was the Prociutto plate. Dry-aged and served with a savory rosemary olive oil, cantaloupe, pistachios and a thick smoky balsamic vinegar. It is interesting to note that we received cantaloupe though the menu highlights grilled figs instead. Perhaps the kitchen was out of figs and a sudden substitute was made. Still, I cannot help but wonder how the figs would have favored the dish differently. On the other hand, good balsamic vinegar can make or break a dish—in a different setting I might have licked what remained clean off the plate.

We returned during the second intermission to find our desserts already set at our reserved table. Espressos on the way, we could not help but begin to eat. After all, at this performance the second intermission was a mere ten minutes (compared to twenty minutes given for the first). The Opera Cake was tiered to grand heights like the Met itself. It was a nutty and rich expression of its namesake. A cinnamon and green apple sorbet “soup” (no longer on the menu) was a light treat. It was a perfect palate cleanser to what we all agreed was the pinnacle of the dessert offerings: the Pistachio Tartufo.

I rarely order Tartufo when it appears on a menu. It often takes the form of what I recognize as a frozen chocolate Sunday: an ice cream ball coated in a chocolate shell. It is because I would rather indulge in a dessert experience, instead of a mere sweet ending, that I would order this one again. The “pistachio ice cream bombe” was enormous and full of fresh nuts, a splendid contrast to the citrus tang of Cara Cara Orange pool, instead of the chocolate that usually surrounds the dish. Like the balsamic vinegar, we tilted the bowl for every last drop. My simple request is that this dessert is never removed from the menu.

A standard menu heavy on seafood is available, but my suggestion is to stay on the lighter side when eating at The Grand Tier. While the food is fabulous one must remember that when dining during an intermission speed is key. One cannot enjoy a carefree meal in this opulent setting without being hard-pressed to make curtain (and fitting in a bathroom break). Be warned to keep beverage orders to one glass, or else that one-hour second act might find you writhing in your seat. The same warning is extended to a heavy meal.

As expected, this extraordinary setting comes with a price. First courses range from $15-$20 and entrees will set you back $30-$40, desserts are all set around $15. Wines by the glass are priced between $14 for a Nappa Chardonnay up to $25 for a Taittinger Brut Champagne.

In the past only Met Opera ticket holders were able to indulge in the scenic and tasteful pleasures of The Grand Tier Restaurant. Starting this season, hours of operation, menus and attendance were expanded. Now all Lincoln Center performance ticket holders can enjoy dinner, a light meal or an elegant dessert in the majestic Metropolitan Opera. Restaurant Director Fred Mills suggests those with tickets outside the Opera join them for a more relaxing pre-theater meal, or be warned you could miss a curtain call. Met ticket holders wishing to dine during intermission are advised to place orders before the evening’s performance to ensure meals will be served promptly once seated at the table.

Despite the elements of speed dining, this restaurant receives my Bravo!

The Grand Tier Restaurant is located on the Metropolitan Opera’s second floor. The restaurant opens at 6pm. Call for reservations, 212.799.3400

Time Out News Flash!

If you live in the Chicagoland area, head over to you local newsstand or bookstore for this week's (Jan 4-10) Time Out Chicago. Check out the "Singles Scoop" section for a little sizzling event I penned.

If you're not in the Chicagoland area, or are simply too lazy to pick up the magazine, go to the link below.

Time Out Chicago Sizzling Singles Piece

Happy reading!

Starbucks Mysteries Too??

Overheard on the streets: Starbucks (or as a friend of mine calls it 4-Bucks, since you can't leave without spending at least $4) has a size smaller than their "tall". A Starbucks "Tall" otherwise known as a "small" in almost every other beverage place is a 12 ounce serving. A friend tells me Starbucks has a "secret" smaller size (possibly around 8 ounces??) that you can ask for on the down low.

I was in the store today getting a chai soy latte and snooped around the cup area. There did seem to be cups smaller than my 12 ounce Tall though I am not sure if they are for espresso or there really is a secret Small Tall. I wanted the Tall and didn't ask for the secret Small Tall. Next time you're in a 4-Bucks, get very quiet and suspicious sounding and ask for their Small Tall.

Mysterious Jamba Juice

About 7 years ago a friend of mine out in California told me the marvels of Jamba Juice. She picked one up every day on her way to class and it tied her over until dinner. She loved it, swore by it, and teased all us east of the Mississippi for having no idea what she was talking about.

Like most things, Jamba Juice eventually made its way to New York City. I tried one (without sorbet), thought it overly sugary, and ever since have been skeptical of the place, preferring my own homemade smoothies to the sugar rush of Jamba (plus, mine were much cheaper).

But a colleague at work recently told me a little secret: There are “Mystery” Jamba flavors.

Interest peeked: “Mystery?”

“Yeah, like In and Out Burger’s “secret” menu.”

“Intriguing”

“Let’s go.”

We thought something like this would have hit big already in the blogsphere and were miffed when we found only one site with anything credible. Today we went to figure the mystery out for ourselves.

A little research was first conducted. I called our closest location and asked about mystery flavors. “Oh yes, I’ve heard of these underground flavors from California. Yes, we have some of those.” I named off the specific flavors I had already heard about: White Gummy Bear, Skittles, Push Up, Strawberry Shortcake. The location had some recipes and we could discuss it further when I arrived.

I arrived with coworkers foaming at the mouth for their mystery juice. We asked what flavors were available and were met with a blank stare. “I spoke with someone,” I explained. “He said you have them.” More blank stares so we asked to speak with the manager. An overly happy man--probably hyped up on Jamba sugar-- appeared. His nametag said “Vivian.”

Others in the store began to take notice of our unusual interest in Jamba’s flavorings. It was explained to us that there were three flavors available: Strawberry Shortcake, White Gummy Bear and Pink Star. Vivian explained that these lists have started to circulate around Jamba Juice locations so a set recipe is becoming available-- They were “finally made official.”

We didn’t really understand what that meant, since many still don’t know about these mystery flavors, not even the employees, and they probably will not appear on any menus (as they are predominantly sorbet and juice with little fruit).

We got one of each, passed them around for tasting, and all agreed the White Gummy Bear was by far the tastiest, essentially a sorbet shake with mango. The Pink Star was by far too sour-sweet; too much lemonade. Strawberry Shortcake was sweet, yet delicious, definitely reminiscent of pound cake slathered with strawberries and topped with thick whipped cream.

Would I go back for more? If a sugar bolt is desired or if I feel the need to impress a Jamba Junkie with my secret knowledge, I suppose I might be found purchasing another. Really though, I’m waiting for another custard shop in New York City!

Still, I bet my friend out in California doesn’t know of the mystery flavors yet, let the mocking begin!

David Kamp's United States of Arugula

David Kamp’s The United States of Arugula: How We Became a Gourmet Nation makes for a good light read for anyone interested in the subject of food, its follies and fights in the United States. It glides the decades and personalities of the food world with personal stories, quirky accounts and riffs of all our favorite foodie things: from the feisty Frenchman brought in to “enlighten” Americans about French cuisine at the World’s Fair to America’s first taste of chèvre to some of today’s better known and loved (or loathed) Celebrity Chefs.

The first half of the book is a fly by of earlier personalities who dip in and out of the remaining pages. The second half provides a more nuanced look at some of the growers, chefs and personalities that forged a new way in the food world. The book is a great insight into the personal lives of some of the big shots in the food establishment while also detailing the accounts of bringing quality ingredients into peoples’ conscience. Unfortunately, to truly be all encompassing the book would have to be encyclopedic in magnitude and in the end, it leaves much to be desired.

I find it hard to believe that it is not until the mid-eighties (page 300) that other cities hop on the gourmet band wagon. It is here that Kamp finally makes note of cities other than New York, San Francisco and Los Angeles as pushing the food envelope, calling for fresh ingredients and seeking out farm relationships. An overwhelming amount of research was taken from New York Times which I believe to be lacking in reach of what is considered newsworthy outside of the coasts. I find it hard to believe there was nothing food-worthy outside these cities before 1983 (which the book gently claims with little mention of other locales before this year).

While rumor has it that many of our known personalities in the food world are slight odd balls-- as anyone with an extreme passion for something might appear-- Kamp’s account of the better known female personalities (namely Julia Child and Alice Waters) leaves images of a crass-mouthed Childs to a feeble yet impassioned Waters; both of whom are slightly sex-crazed. On the other hand, the early non-chef-pen-inclined men in the field, Craig Claiborne and James Beard, are sited throughout as beacons of light in an otherwise female dominated arena—when they’re not too drunk to work/ eat. Though I don’t necessarily doubt the validity of it, I wonder whether the scope of it is needed in the book.

The real question boils down to not how the revolutionaries came to love good food and advance their cause of good eats, but how our food industry came to such grim lows—from the mass packaged tv dinners, the dire straights our farms have entered, our wax-coated SmartFresh gas crazes, quick-fix diet fads and childhood obesity to name a few.

In United States of Arugula, Kamp skims the surface when he mentions Industrialization giving rise to the horrid conditions of the meat industry that became familiar in Upton Sinclair’s The Jungle and continues today in many industries. What he fails to mention is the natural progression that as world travel became more affordable for the common person and the medias’ ability to reach tenfold the numbers with more accurate and timely news, people would be more in tune with world happenings, be it the next president of a nation or the newest food craze to reach London streets. This, along with the rise in popularity of food-specific magazines, like Saveur and Gourmet helped to disseminate news to food enthusiasts around.

Every generation will have their counterculture ready to dismiss their parents’ teachings. Whether it’s seemingly radical political visions or the food they grew up on (The United States of Arugula rightly points out this is also quite political). Therefore, it was only natural that the hyper-revolutionary 1960’s and -70’s brought out a movement of food awareness that continues to this day.

But now, as words like gourmet, organic and free-range have entered common lexicon and consumers become more label savvy and pesticide/ herbicide/ hormone weary, the question falls have we pushed our gourmet world too far? What does gourmet, organic and free-range mean today? While Americans may be pushing Popeye’s spinach aside for the peppery arugula, have we turned the notion of gourmet into a McNotion—with even WalMart taking on the organic world? Will organic laws hold up and labeling prevail so we know what is in our food (including what is sprayed on it), where it comes from and possibly even what our food was fed? Are organizations like Slow Food (slowfood.com) and concepts like Community Supported Agriculture (CSAs) too late or just in time?

Rink Side Dining With a View @ The Sea Grill, NYC

Tucked away in the lower level of Rockefeller Center, The Sea Grill, is the Center’s premier dining space. Overlooking Rockefeller Center’s Ice Rink (ice is set in November; otherwise outdoor dining), the view offers prime entertainment (be wary as the skaters can see you too and notice your every giggle at their stumbles). Starting in mid-November when the Center’s Christmas tree can be seen from its windows, there is nothing more festively modern than this dining space.

My dining companion and I entered the tiny soothing blue welcome hall, checked our belongings and were promptly ushered to our seats precisely at our reservation time. We were offered a seat off to the side and cozied in. But before we could even pick up a wine list a window seat opened up and we were asked if we would like to move. We did, into a full windowed seat.

As the name suggests, the menu centers on seafood, but is unafraid to abandon surf for turf. A long sleek dining room creates an underwater feel, complete with bubbly floor tiles and frosted blue glass interior. You might be as hard pressed as I was at choosing just one entrée, but no fear, our calming and attentive waiter presented a solution: a tasting menu.

Sous Chef Yuhi Fujinaga stated tasting menus are great fun in the kitchen. They allow the kitchen to play around with ingredients and experiment a little bit more than the fixed menu does. If you truly want to put no thought in to your dinner, or simply can’t decide, the tasting menu is a great option and can be accompanied by a wine pairing as well (if you have the means).

There are positives to the (slowly) changing weather. The fall turning to winter is prime truffle season. The Sea Grill is currently offering a $1000 white truffle tasting menu of eight dishes. If you can afford it, the price might well be worth a taste of this succulent “diamond of the kitchen.” The menu will be offered for another few weeks, highlighting the pungent aroma and umami flavorings so get it while you can. After that, the chefs will take on the black truffle and a whole new menu.

If the $1000 is too deep for your pockets do not despair. Other irresistible items appear on the menu at much more reasonable prices (entrées range $30-40). A small plates collection is also available (just under $70 per person) and if you’re up for a grand event, without being too opulent, a general tasting menu, which we had, is excellent (priced around $300 per person including wine pairings).

The menu changes according to season and the comfort foods currently offered are pure delight. We were lucky enough to attend at the height of white truffle season and with that, were offered the truffle in a small handful of our dishes.

Our most pleasant fare was a simple Kumamoto Oyster topped with Caspian caviar and served with a Moet Vintage 1999. We knew we were in the hands of the skilled and as we sipped our champagne and popped our oysters, we smiled at our good fortune. The oysters, imbued with the perfect amount of ocean water, offered a fresh, salty kick, an exciting contrast to the dry champagne.

Butter poached lobster tails were delightful. Sweet, smooth and full of unexpected flavor additions from the passion fruit glaze to the honey-like vanilla oil and the celery foam.

The stunner of the evening was the Okinawan sweet potato. A royal purple potato that is sweeter than the traditional sweet potato we are familiar with (and even more decadent when white truffle has been added)—This potato would make a stunning addition to any holiday meal.

Sea scallops, served atop a bed of white truffled mashed potatoes with truffle shavings on top arrived mid-meal. Hiding under a ceramic dome, the aroma of the truffles nearly knocked us down once revealed. Earthy, sweet and buttery, this dish simply melted in the mouth. I assure you, by this point, my courageous dining partner and I were stuffed to the gills, but with so much flavor and purity in each bite we had a difficult time not licking the plate clean (mind you, we were in public so we simply scraped it bare).

With the truffles out of sight and tucked into our bellies a long pause passed. Ah, it must be a break before dessert. Alas, a stronger red wine was presented and my loyal companion’s lips began to quiver. We looked at each other… meat?! Sure enough, a thimble-sized bone marrow soufflé accompanied by 28-day dry aged prime NY Strip was delivered. “I can eat no more!” I declared—after finishing off the deliciously fatty soufflé and half the steak.

We cowered in our chairs praying that dessert would soon arrive. As a fawn yellow bottle materialized we smiled at Lady Luck: a pleasantly thick and sweet Sautèrnes was offered with no less than two servings of cake, a key lime pie-- the house specialty, a bowl of warm powdered Madeleines and an artist palate of homemade ice creams and sorbets. Of course, not wanting to offend we tasted all, dipping the final Madeleine in cappuccino for a grand finale.

I have left out a few dishes. The above mentioned were by far the standouts. Miniature cracker cones full of tuna tartar started our evening. Though good, they were missing a binding. A wild Alaskan black cod was nutty and delicious, but the accompanying mussels and sea scallops were overcooked. The steak and soufflé alone would have sufficed but were served with a pasta that even Sous Chef Fujinaga felt the need to defend.

Unfortunately, I have forgotten the name of most of the wines we were served after the champagne (I blame this on the steadfast waitstaff’s lightning refill ability that never left a glass nearing empty). A delicious Gamay from Fluerie, Burgundy accompanied our lobster. Rich and elegantly laced with dark cherry. There was a Pacific Northwest Cabernet with “Elixir” and Da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man printed on the bottle that was full and robust. Each pairing suited its dish well, adding character to every bite.

While most families would not tote their children to such extravagance, Chef Edward Brown understands families enjoy a good holiday meal together. If little Susie and Mikey tire of looping the ice rink and decide to dine with Mommy and Daddy, Brown has established a children’s menu, perfect for the family’s Thanksgiving dinner which includes crispy cod fingers (rather, fish sticks).

I dined on a Tuesday night and found mostly a business crowd with a few solo diners and cheerful groups scattered throughout but would expect more couples on weekends. The setting is pure romance, especially if a window seat with a view of the Rockafeller Center Christmas tree is obtained.

The Sea Grill is highly recommended, just try not to bust the bank.

The Sea Grill is located at Rockefeller Center
19 West 49th St., lower level
New York City
212.332.7610

Food Art @ The Plant, DUMBO, Brooklyn, NY

We all get tired of the same old fare when eating out. Chicken becomes chicken, steak is steak and the usual du jour is a bore. Regardless of ethnic or fusion twist, there comes a point in everyone’s life where a lingering hunger no meal or cuisine can satisfy presents its ugly head. It is a sad state in the restaurant goers life.

There are restaurants now attempting to change the mundane. Many of us have been to these establishments already. It is when we are presented with a plate of food, and even if we “know” what we ordered, must let out an excited “what’s this?!” Tasting and the event of eating comes to the forefront. Diners sit and begin to contemplate the ingredients, textures, tastes, presentation, fellow diner’s meals and the event is made a spectacle, lasting hours and is a pure joy. Simply, it is Food Art.

For me, the “wow” experiences often revolve around a vegetarian (or vegan) restaurant’s ability to impress (though these establishments are not exclusively vegetarian-- think WD-50 in New York City-- I find more often they are). It is in these establishments where I might order a common mushroom dish, only to be impressed that I have never tasted a dish quite like it—What is in it? How did they do it? Is yours like this too?

A recent night out brought me to The Plant in DUMBO (the acronym for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) in Brooklyn, NY. It is a raw food establishment that offers cooking courses, Friday night prix fixe dinners and has their Blue/Green café and juice bar locations scattered around the tri-state area.

The challenge: to fill my skeptical carnivorous dining partner up so no late-night stop at the taco stand down the street would be necessary.

The Plant offers special Friday night raw dinners in their sleek DUMBO headquarters. (The Blue/Green juice bars offer a more casual luncheon experience.) I was told that "raw is anything prepared under 118 degrees which is the designated degree below which foods that are cooked retain all their nutrients.” A great concept, so how did they perform?

The prixe fix begins at 8pm and as diners filtered in were greeted with wine, coconut milk or water. In the bare white-walled-and-full-windowed room, no pictures marked a place on the wall and nothing was left to the imagination—the view of the Manhattan Bridge into lower Manhattan was enough of a photograph. Going with the raw theme, the kitchen, more a prep area, was open for viewing. Cooks and their preps were seen arranging our meals for the communal meal… Communal?

The Plant makes use of their space. Marble-topped prep tables used during their Saturday cooking courses get pushed together, forming two large dining areas (my only qualm was my long legs did not fit under the high topped tables once seated in my stool and I was forced to sit far back or sideways throughout the meal). The communal dining experience allowed banter at your side and across the table as well optimal viewing of the meal in progress (including the visual and audio reactions of fellow diners). More often than not, it was excited raised eyebrows from men and women alike when the food arrived.

The first dish was a "Jack-o-Lantern" served with a "Blood and Guts-tini"-- it was their Halloween meal. The -tini was a deliciously fresh blend of pomegranate, orange and persimmon pulp. So refreshing that when asked for seconds the crew at The Plant was happy to oblige. The Jack-o-Lantern, a creamy tomato and fennel soup with ricotta (served in a hollowed out pumpkin) tasted more like pizza (though the apple dumpling was a succulent surprise). We could not decide whether this was possibly because tomato paste was used, if the ricotta blended with tomato gave this flavor or the fact that 118 degrees is in fact, not very hot, and the soup was served at room temperature, lending itself to a cold pizza.

The "Crawlies" were a delicious tower of red lobster mushrooms and truffled cashew puree served between inventive black sesame webs. Cracking through the sesame webs I felt black widow spiders would scramble across the plate. The lobster mushrooms were fabulously juicy and the truffled cashew puree bordered on a butter addiction.

"Shadow of a Black Cat" was next, described as a pumpkin and wild mushroom risotto with a creamy sage sauce. Overall a slight disappointment if you are used to truly creamy risottos. This one arrived slightly dry though the sage sauce was a glowing addition.

By far the most delightfully imaginative dish was "Under a White Sheet." Arugula with herbed goat cheese, carmelized shallots, "roasted" tomato and lemon-thyme foam. Served under a ghostly cover with a devilish smile, the ingredients in this dish were a great display. Peppery arugula, earthy goat cheese and sweet shallots exploded with flavor while the lemon-thyme foam offered a delicate cleanse for the final and most important dish, dessert.

Appropriately named "Trick or Treat," the dessert was the only dish that resembled a meaty cousin. An aside: I am tired of vegetarian restaurants serving up "pork" chops and "chicken" fingers and would much rather delight in the pure essence of a dish that demonstrates unique flavors than eat imitations-- eating imitations just leaves me wanting the real thing. With that being said, the "eggs and bacon" served, though they were a perfect representation of the real thing, were totally unique. The "bacon" was caramel strips perfect for sopping up the coconut creme anglaise (the albumen or egg whites). The usual creamy "yolk" remained sweet and delicious disguised as poached mango carpaccio. Even though I craved some real bacon with this dish, I couldn't help but be delighted in this creation.

I left happy and full. Even though every course was not necessarily a winner, the dining experience was pure spectacle. The skeptical dining partner? Though he did glance forlornly at the taco stand, he did enjoy the uniqueness of the meal.

If you are already a raw, vegan or vegetarian diner, this is definitely a restaurant to check out. If you're a meat-eater looking for a fun and unusual dining experience The Plant is worth the trip, though may not satisfy one who believes a meal is not complete without meat.

The Plant is located at 25 Jay Street, Brooklyn, NY.
Dinners are Friday at 8pm and generally last about 3 hours.
Raw cooking classes are offered on Saturday.
More information about The Plant and their Blue/Green Juice Bars can be found at www.theplantindumbo.com. Or, check out their blog: www.theplantindumbo.blogspot.com